Truscott… That sounds familiar…. Well unless you’ve been hibernating, you will have probably heard of the Cellars award-winning older sibling, the Truscott Arms, both of which are overseen by chef Aidan McGee.
Whats different? I hear you ask… Well about 400 types of wine. This place has established itself as a restaurant and winery and has a punchy selection to back it up.
A bit of History…. Husband and wife Andrew and Mary Jane Fishwick (he is an Award-winning theatre director) acquired the Truscott Arms in 2012. Without giving too much sibling rivalry, it has won a tonne of awards including being named as the best place for a roast in the whole of the UK at last year’s Best British Roast Dinner awards. If you are not from London or indeed the UK, you can see how startlingly seriously the British take roast dinners…. but this place… is the younger sister that studied wine in Bordeaux.
This is a a tapas style restaurant… (Well, it can be if like me you want to try everything) and perfect for small intimate groups (They also have a banquet style table for larger parties).
I am not entirely sure what the norm is, but we went for a healthy 6 dishes (6 including dessert… Judgy Judgy) and each was reminiscent of refined home cooking.
I really liked the Wild mushroom, artichoke and cheese cream. It was quite subtle in flavour, but it needs to be when it is flanked on one side by the Roasted squash with spelt, goats curd, honey and truffle dressing. It is rich and autumnal (which sounds very Delia Smith/Martha Stewart) and is comfort food despite consisting of mainly healthy things.
On the other side is my champion…. No surprises that it is the Beef cheek with smoked mash and crispy shallots. Super soft and a warming gravy that makes you wish it was winter.
Another dish worth mentioning was the Cornish cod with salsify, greens, cider sauce and mussels. I am pleased to see that Salsify is getting a pretty good rep and oddly, it ended up on 3 of my menus in one week. It looks like a parsnip, but tastes somewhere in between that and potato or sweet potato.
If I had to recommend a dish however, it would be the Crispy Pig Board (Yes I know its technically 3 dishes)… This is Pig’s Head, crispy belly scratchings & pig’s ear…. The crispy pigs head was unbelievable and had a subtle spiciness encased like little pig croquettes. Pig 3 ways is always a big yes from me.
The dessert was a bit of a stand out dish in the Maple cheesecake, blueberries and pecan crumb. Cheesecake – Good, Pecan Crumb – great, but surprisingly the blueberries were in more of a jam than a coulis and this for me, made it extra decadent. Coulis is great, but sometimes you want to eat something that makes you feel like a kid… a very sugar-wired kid.
I know this area very very well and it is a very trendy, well turned out and well dined clientele. They have high standards and expect a lot.