I had wanted to go to “dinner” by Heston for a while but knowing the show and standards of Heston’s other restaurants, I wanted to go for an occasion. For my birthday, two of us went to Dinner for a taste treat of epic proportions.
Set in the Mandarin Oriental hotel just off Hyde Park, the decor is inspired by 15th/16th Century cooking. This apparently was down to Hestons intrigue over the era(s). What does that mean exactly? Good question.
Essentially, it means that there is a lot of iron and wood with very little in the way of modern gimmicky ipad menus or uber-modern decor. There is a glass wall that views into the kitchen so that you can see the magic happening with a “unique spit roast pulley system, which is modelled after an original used in the royal court”. It is a celebration (and thoroughly researched one) of Gastronomic history.
The Food:
Inspired the British recipes used by even the Royal Courts of King Henry VIII, the food is a real departure from the expected. (Except, if you know Heston Blumenthal’s food, then you will expect to not expect this)
This food is unreal. Not only because it is unbelievably good as expected, but it is literally unreal. The first thing that we ate was a mandarin, only to discover that it was actually pate, or “Mandarin Meat Fruit” with mandarin Jelly that looked exactly like a Mandarin.
We also had the Roast Marrowbone with Snails, parsley, anchovy, mace & pickled vegetables. Woof. This was seriously good. Even if you usually recoil at the thought of snails, I would highly recommend that you try this… and then perhaps have a talk with yourself about getting on board with snails.
Also, the Savoury Porridge of Roast cod palette, smoked beetroot, garlic, parsley & fennel. (I know what you’re thinking.. 3 dishes…. there were only two of you… judgy judgy).
For mains, we had the Spiced Pigeon with Ale & artichokes and the Hereford Ribeye with Mushroom ketchup & triple cooked chips. The pigeon was obviously perfectly cooked and had a really unexpected spice that you wouldn’t usually expect with Pigeon (from the mace).
The ribeye was cooked to perfection for my dining partners taste and was incredibly full of flavour. (As an off tangent side note, I would choose Rib-eye over a Fillet any day of the week…).
Dessert:
As you know, my mention of dessert is usually brief, but then usually they aren’t being served to you on a portable ice-cream cart with enough nitrus oxide to rival the look of a time machine.
Their signature is the Tipsy Cake with Spit roast pineapple but I have never been one to follow suit so watched on as other diners tried it… They all seemed to be incredibly pleased.
For me… the Delorean style ice cream maker was the only option…
The Atmos:
Being of an incredible standard of both cooking and invention, the place is… well frankly exciting. People are intrigued and wowed and like kids in a very big and lavish sweet shop (If this leads you to expect food for 1p, you will be mistaken).
Everyone is experiencing new things and unexpected treats at the same time and so there is a bit of a collective excitement in the air.
My Advice? You should have stopped reading this at “Mandarin Meat Fruit” and headed out to Knightsbridge….
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal – 66 Knightsbridge London SW1X 7LA, United Kingdom
Gin & Bone 