Eight addresses for frozen glasses, proper ceremony and very good reasons to dress for drinks.

A martini is a small drink to have such strong opinions about. Gin or vodka. Olive or twist. Enough vermouth to make itself known, or merely a passing introduction. Everyone has a position, and very few are prepared to negotiate.

London, thankfully, caters to all of them. There are hotel bars where your drink arrives with a trolley and a consultation, dark corners made for indiscretion, and neighbourhood places quietly making something exceptional.

These are the eight I would put in the little black book. Some for the ceremony, some for the room, all for what ends up in the glass.

Price guide, for drinks rather than dinner: ££ = the more accessible end of this edit; £££ = premium cocktail territory; ££££ = a luxury hotel splurge. Your choice of spirit can move things considerably.

Dukes Bar

Area: St James’s
Price: ££££
Vibe: Discreet, old-school London with formidable drinks
Go for: Tableside martinis and a tradition worth keeping
Address: 35 St James’s Place, SW1A 1NY
Website: dukeshotel.com

Dukes is where the martini becomes an occasion. Tucked away in St James’s, it has the sort of quiet confidence that comes from knowing people have crossed continents to sit down and order one.

Alessandro Palazzi and his team are famous for the tableside ritual: frozen bottles, frosted glasses and the deliberate little flourishes that make watching your drink almost as enjoyable as drinking it. A classic gin martini is an excellent starting point; Palazzi’s take on the Vesper is another very good reason to be here. dukeshotel.com

My best friend and I have been every Christmas for the last six or seven years. Some people make wreaths. We have traditions involving frozen gin (vodka).

Allow time to settle in. This is a bar for an unhurried conversation, a properly made drink and absolutely no urgency to stand up afterwards.

Worth knowing: Dukes Bar remains open while the hotel completes its refurbishment. dukeshotel.com

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The Connaught Bar

Area: Mayfair
Price: ££££
Vibe: Polished, intimate and beautifully orchestrated
Go for: The martini trolley and a drink tailored to you
Address: The Connaught, Carlos Place, W1K 2AL
Website: The Connaught Bar

At The Connaught, ordering a martini is a conversation. The trolley arrives, the aromatic bitters are introduced, and you choose the direction your drink will take. Bespoke tailoring for your aperitif. Frankly, more things should come with this level of consultation.

The signature service lets you explore the difference a subtle aromatic note can make, from lavender or tonka to the bergamot-and-ginseng character of Dr Ago bitters. The drink is stirred, then poured from a height with the sort of precision that makes it look effortless. Tableside Cocktail Ritual

Come when you want drinks to be the evening’s main event, rather than a brief administrative stage before dinner. It is a splurge, certainly. But there is considerable pleasure in sitting somewhere that takes every detail of your martini this seriously.

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The Dover

Area: Mayfair
Price: £££
Vibe: Low-lit New York glamour on Dover Street
Go for: Martinis at the bar and an evening with possibilities
Address: 33 Dover Street, W1S 4NF
Website: thedoverrestaurant.com

The Dover understands the appeal of a glamorous bar exceptionally well. Its New York Italian sensibility makes it an easy choice when you want to dress up, order something cold and see where the evening goes.

The details are particularly pleasing. Garnishes are brined in-house, and a fresh frozen glass can replace yours if the drink has been sitting long enough to lose its chill. Finally, someone taking my problems seriously. The Infatuation

A Gibson feels entirely at home here, although your usual martini order is in very capable hands. Take a seat at the bar and give yourself permission to linger.

Useful for spontaneous plans: the bar operates on a first-come, first-served basis. Arrive looking as though this was always your intention. New York Italian

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Hawksmoor Martini Bar

Area: St Pancras / King’s Cross
Price: ££
Vibe: Grand Gothic surroundings with a lively streak
Go for: Sub-zero martinis and substantial bar snacks
Address: St Pancras London, Euston Road, NW1 2AR
Website: thehawksmoor.com

Hawksmoor’s Martini Bar gives St Pancras a compelling destination in its own right. The soaring room has all the architectural drama you could want, while the drinks menu gives the martini the attention usually reserved for Hawksmoor’s steaks.

There are Ultimate Martinis, a Pink Gibson and Dukes-style Direct Martinis. The Infatuation reported measuring one below -16.6°C. I have not conducted a peer review, but I appreciate a bar prepared to take refrigeration this personally. Hawksmoor

Make room for the food, too. Scotch olives stuffed with blue cheese and hash browns topped with caviar are precisely the sort of supporting cast a martini deserves.

Expect more energy than a hushed hotel lounge, with DJs and live music forming part of the programme. A considerably better reason to visit St Pancras than a delayed train. Hawksmoor

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Bob Bob Ricard

Area: Soho
Price: £££
Vibe: Blue booths, brass and glorious excess
Go for: The frozen martini and full evening glamour
Address: 1-3 Upper James Street, W1F 9DF
Website: bobbobricard.com

Bob Bob Ricard has never been shy about making an entrance. The booths, the gleaming brass, the Champagne buttons: this is a room that encourages you to make something of the evening. Soho, London

Its martini has received similarly extravagant treatment. The Soho restaurant markets a -22°C serve as the world’s coldest, poured tableside from a frozen bottle into a frozen glass. Choose gin or vodka, with an olive or a twist. timeout.com

I have not arrived with a thermometer, but I admire the commitment to making “ice cold” sound insufficient.

The temperature claim belongs to the restaurant; the appeal of drinking one in this room requires rather less scientific investigation. Book dinner, settle into a booth and let the evening acquire a little unnecessary splendour.

Worth knowing: restaurant reservations are for full meals, so plan this one around dinner. Soho, London

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Upstairs at Rules

Area: Covent Garden
Price: £££
Vibe: Dark wood, tucked-away corners and old London manners
Go for: A classic martini and a proper catch-up
Address: 34-35 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7LB
Website: rules.co.uk

Upstairs at Rules is a particularly satisfying escape from the bustle of Covent Garden. Dark wood, intimate corners and the reassuring feeling that the room has heard considerably worse secrets than yours.

The drinks follow a classic-minded approach. The martini is stirred, with a choice of gin or vodka and the house vermouth blend. It is exactly the sort of order this setting calls for: clear, cold and served without a lengthy explanation. Rules Restaurant

Come before dinner downstairs, or make the bar your destination for a long overdue conversation. This is somewhere to put your phone away and give the person opposite you your attention.

Old school. Very good form. And considerably more appealing than negotiating the crowds outside.

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Brutes of Mayfair

Area: Mayfair, Bruton Place
Price: £££
Vibe: An intimate martini shop with a playful streak
Go for: Specifying your drink down to the last detail
Address: 34a Bruton Place, W1J 6NR
Website: brutesofmayfair.com

Brutes has found a way to make paperwork appealing. You are handed a martini order card and invited to specify exactly how you like yours. Spirit, style, garnish: your preferences finally have somewhere official to live. London’s Best Martini?

For anyone who has ever ordered a martini and then spent five minutes wondering whether “dry” meant the same thing to everyone involved, this is a very satisfying arrangement.

The approach has a welcome sense of humour. There is enough ceremony to make ordering enjoyable, with plenty of scope to make the finished drink your own.

A good choice for a friend who has strong martini opinions. Give them the card. Let them feel heard.

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Three Sheets

Area: Dalston
Price: ££
Vibe: Small, understated and quietly assured
Go for: Excellent drinks in a neighbourhood setting
Address: 510b Kingsland Road, E8 4AB
Website: threesheets-bar.com

The original Three Sheets on Kingsland Road earns its place through restraint. Opened by brothers Max and Noel Venning in 2016, it focuses on thoughtful drinks, seasonal ingredients and careful technique, all within a small neighbourhood bar. Three Sheets Bars

For this particular assignment, ask for a classic gin martini with a twist. The simplicity suits the place beautifully. There is also a changing cocktail menu to explore if your companion has not committed quite so firmly to the brief. The Infatuation

This is the address for a low-key date, a discerning friend or an evening when you want something exceptional without turning getting dressed into a project.

Excellent drinks do not require a hotel lobby or a chandelier. Although, as the rest of this list demonstrates, I remain very open to both.

See you by the bar. Make mine with no less than 3 olives. Extra filthy x