An iconic room gets a rejuvenating facelift but still keeps its 1930s charm.

I love vintage chic, especially when the 20s and 30s are concerned, but all too often it seems as if 1930’s style = a 1930’s menu, 1930’s decor and staff that have been working there since the 1930’s…  Not this time.

Alain Ducasse’s protégé Christophe Marleix has dreamt up seasonal menus in this creative departure from the expected.

I actually went with my family for a lavish lunch.

First of all, a mention for the incredibly well informed waiting staff. They were exceptionally attentive to the entire group, which consisted of my young Nephew who isn’t quite as concerned with “which particular champagne compliments the Salmon” as the rest of the table… Give him time.

Even so, they went out of their way to ensure that all of our party was catered to..

The decor has come into the 21st Century without totally snubbing its traditional status. Its nice to see a restaurant retaining their 30’s glamour while tweaking parts here and there. 

Brass cooking pots and chandeliers are heavily featured in the room. (Always a fan of a chandelier). Zinc, copper and marble feature throughout and the “butterscotch leather and oak parquet flooring” really ensures that the old is very much present with the new.

Well done you, Interior architect Bruno Moinard. Well done you.

The Food:

Grill favourites are obviously featured along side the restaurant’s signature starter blue lobster chowder and an extensive sweet soufflé menu which was an original in London. 

For other starters, as you might expect, there are exquisite Hand-dived sea scallops, black pudding, autumn salad, a crowd pleasing Duck foie gras, fig and orange chutney and a host of great seafood.

The mains are (as it says on the tin) a selection of meat, fish and seafood grills.

As a shock to even me, I opted for the Black leg free-range chicken for a main… Now this, I would usually consider an act of aggression by any other diner when other meats are on show, but having seen the chickens on a rotisserie, the waiter highly recommended them as a speciality of the restaurant… well one of them.

It was actually perfectly seasoned and accompanied by ‘street corner’ potatoes, toasted country bread. My heart will always be with red meat, but this was a chicken lovers dream.

FYI, they also make a pretty special Caesar Salad with this chicken.

Other favourites include, Whole Dover sole (for 1 or 2) with lemon/capers/croutons and also the Organic Welsh lamb two ways with salsify (winner) and crispy polenta. This is a winner with all meat lovers.

For Dessert, it didn’t disappoint and The ‘Essentially chocolate’ mousse to finish was just enough to curb the sweet cravings without bringing a heavy sugar cloud over the experience.

The point is, when you have a good thing going, why mess with tradition?

Sometimes, you just need a little oil change to really see the engine at its best.

The Grill at The Dorchester – The Dorchester Hotel, 53 Park Ln, London W1K 1QA